Comments for SKF Bearing Online http://www.bearingsok.com Here you can find all kinds of skf bearings. Mon, 10 Oct 2011 06:32:18 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3 Comment on How do I know if the bolts are in bearing my shower? by diver0604 http://www.bearingsok.com/how-do-i-know-if-the-bolts-are-in-bearing-my-shower.html/comment-page-1#comment-15520 diver0604 Mon, 10 Oct 2011 06:32:18 +0000 http://www.bearingsok.com/how-do-i-know-if-the-bolts-are-in-bearing-my-shower.html#comment-15520 Martin has a good answer. However, let me just add this: If it is an exterior wall, it is always load bearing. Any interior walls, see Martins answer. Martin has a good answer. However, let me just add this: If it is an exterior wall, it is always load bearing. Any interior walls, see Martins answer.

]]> Comment on How do I know if the bolts are in bearing my shower? by martin couch http://www.bearingsok.com/how-do-i-know-if-the-bolts-are-in-bearing-my-shower.html/comment-page-1#comment-15519 martin couch Mon, 10 Oct 2011 06:13:40 +0000 http://www.bearingsok.com/how-do-i-know-if-the-bolts-are-in-bearing-my-shower.html#comment-15519 This question seems to come up at least once a week, usually accompanied by incorrect answers. Rather than type it all over, I'll cut and paste my answer from a few days ago.... Best Answer - Chosen By Voters The safest was to be absolutely sure is to have an engineer/architect tell you. It is fairly inexpensive, particularly when considering the damage you can cause your home and yourself if you alter a wall you "thought" was not load bearing. Contrary to the answer above mine, there are many factors involved beyond whether your ceiling joists run parallel to the wall in question. If your home is built with roof trusses rather than framing, a wall parallel to the joists may not be load bearing. If your house has a second story, walls that do not run parallel to joists may still be load bearing. If your home has an addition, an interior wall may actually be a "stealth" bearing wall because it was an exterior wall, and structurally still is. This question comes up frequently, and each time it does I see answers from people who do not know enough to give an opinion. This is far too important, and far too dangerous, a matter for anyone to answer without being in your house. Even then, many carpenters and contractors frequently get it wrong. I reiterate - I strongly suggest you pay an engineer/architect to answer this for you. Thanks Diver, and your right. I usually manage to mention that, but somehow left it out of my most recent answer. This question seems to come up at least once a week, usually accompanied by incorrect answers. Rather than type it all over, I’ll cut and paste my answer from a few days ago….

Best Answer – Chosen By Voters

The safest was to be absolutely sure is to have an engineer/architect tell you. It is fairly inexpensive, particularly when considering the damage you can cause your home and yourself if you alter a wall you “thought” was not load bearing.

Contrary to the answer above mine, there are many factors involved beyond whether your ceiling joists run parallel to the wall in question.

If your home is built with roof trusses rather than framing, a wall parallel to the joists may not be load bearing.

If your house has a second story, walls that do not run parallel to joists may still be load bearing.

If your home has an addition, an interior wall may actually be a “stealth” bearing wall because it was an exterior wall, and structurally still is.

This question comes up frequently, and each time it does I see answers from people who do not know enough to give an opinion.

This is far too important, and far too dangerous, a matter for anyone to answer without being in your house. Even then, many carpenters and contractors frequently get it wrong.

I reiterate – I strongly suggest you pay an engineer/architect to answer this for you.

Thanks Diver, and your right. I usually manage to mention that, but somehow left it out of my most recent answer.

]]> Comment on How do I know if the bolts are in bearing my shower? by Doug G http://www.bearingsok.com/how-do-i-know-if-the-bolts-are-in-bearing-my-shower.html/comment-page-1#comment-15518 Doug G Mon, 10 Oct 2011 05:52:52 +0000 http://www.bearingsok.com/how-do-i-know-if-the-bolts-are-in-bearing-my-shower.html#comment-15518 It depends on what is happening above this wall. If the wood framing or joists above the shower wall (ceiling, roof, or floor joists) are parallel to the wall, it is not load bearing. If the joists above are perpendicular to the wall it could be load bearing. If there is an attic above this wall you can check it. Looking in an attic, if any perpendicular joists are spliced or lapped over this wall it is load bearing. If there are no laps or splices over the shower wall, and the span of the perpendicular joist from the next closest bearing walls to the shower wall is short compared to adjacent joists, then it is not load bearing. If you have access to a crawlspace or basement below this wall, if there is no foundation or beam directly below the shower wall, it is not load bearing. Without crawlspace or attic access, you can determine joist direction in the ceiling from below with a stud finder, or if the finish is gypsum board, by knocking on the ceiling and listening for the difference between hollow sounds between joists, and the solid sound when knocking at framing. You will need to confirm joist locations by driving a small finish nail through the ceiling finish into the joist, or possibly removing the gypsum board or plaster to view the framing direction. It depends on what is happening above this wall. If the wood framing or joists above the shower wall (ceiling, roof, or floor joists) are parallel to the wall, it is not load bearing.
If the joists above are perpendicular to the wall it could be load bearing.
If there is an attic above this wall you can check it. Looking in an attic, if any perpendicular joists are spliced or lapped over this wall it is load bearing. If there are no laps or splices over the shower wall, and the span of the perpendicular joist from the next closest bearing walls to the shower wall is short compared to adjacent joists, then it is not load bearing.
If you have access to a crawlspace or basement below this wall, if there is no foundation or beam directly below the shower wall, it is not load bearing.
Without crawlspace or attic access, you can determine joist direction in the ceiling from below with a stud finder, or if the finish is gypsum board, by knocking on the ceiling and listening for the difference between hollow sounds between joists, and the solid sound when knocking at framing. You will need to confirm joist locations by driving a small finish nail through the ceiling finish into the joist, or possibly removing the gypsum board or plaster to view the framing direction.

]]> Comment on How do I know if the bolts are in bearing my shower? by mary h http://www.bearingsok.com/how-do-i-know-if-the-bolts-are-in-bearing-my-shower.html/comment-page-1#comment-15517 mary h Mon, 10 Oct 2011 05:28:57 +0000 http://www.bearingsok.com/how-do-i-know-if-the-bolts-are-in-bearing-my-shower.html#comment-15517 to determine this- you need to look at EVERY floor or level in your home, no matter what anyone tells you - you can not tell if a perticular wall is load bearing until you have determined that it is not on every level of the home. look at the floor plan from the basement- in the basement you will find one maybe 2 main beams going across which is holding or transferring the load of every floor above it - you can identify the main beams by seeing which are lying on posts that continue down to the basement floor, or onto peirs if thats what you have. the floor joists will be running in the opposite direction then the main beam. -if that shower wall is run along the same area-even close to that "main" beam -then yes it it load bearing. dont touch it without a carpenter there to help. if the shower wall runs in the opposite direction as the main beam(s) or in the same direction as the main beam but in a different location - then you need to move into and inspect the floor above it - attic or otherwise, and you need to verify if there is anything laying on top of the wall , depending on how the home is set up - removing the drywall or plaster located above the wall may help- if the shower wall ends at the bathroom ceiling with no other wall above it then it is probley not load bearing, if ANY part of that wall has a verticle column above it in the attic or any floor above it - then it is load bearing. If you see no load bearing wall below the shower wall- and no wall above the shower wall- then chances are it is not load bearing-BUT that is not a 100% answer becasue the weight the wall handeled may be transferred to another wall or beam through the use of horizontal beams being run across it in the attic. so if you see any addittional walls or large beams or even doubled up 2X4s running across this wall at any point above or below- then its probley load bearing in the way that it transfers the load from one place to another. and if you can fully expose what your looking at or question it at any time then its time to consult someone familiar with construction. keep in mind even a fully load bearing wall that bears 2,3 or even 10 stories- can be taken out with the proper replacement of a header. to determine this- you need to look at EVERY floor or level in your home, no matter what anyone tells you – you can not tell if a perticular wall is load bearing until you have determined that it is not on every level of the home.
look at the floor plan from the basement- in the basement you will find one maybe 2 main beams going across which is holding or transferring the load of every floor above it – you can identify the main beams by seeing which are lying on posts that continue down to the basement floor, or onto peirs if thats what you have. the floor joists will be running in the opposite direction then the main beam. -if that shower wall is run along the same area-even close to that “main” beam -then yes it it load bearing. dont touch it without a carpenter there to help.
if the shower wall runs in the opposite direction as the main beam(s) or in the same direction as the main beam but in a different location – then you need to move into and inspect the floor above it – attic or otherwise, and you need to verify if there is anything laying on top of the wall , depending on how the home is set up – removing the drywall or plaster located above the wall may help- if the shower wall ends at the bathroom ceiling with no other wall above it then it is probley not load bearing, if ANY part of that wall has a verticle column above it in the attic or any floor above it – then it is load bearing.
If you see no load bearing wall below the shower wall- and no wall above the shower wall- then chances are it is not load bearing-BUT that is not a 100% answer becasue the weight the wall handeled may be transferred to another wall or beam through the use of horizontal beams being run across it in the attic. so if you see any addittional walls or large beams or even doubled up 2X4s running across this wall at any point above or below- then its probley load bearing in the way that it transfers the load from one place to another.
and if you can fully expose what your looking at or question it at any time then its time to consult someone familiar with construction. keep in mind even a fully load bearing wall that bears 2,3 or even 10 stories- can be taken out with the proper replacement of a header.

]]> Comment on How do I know if the bolts are in bearing my shower? by .monk http://www.bearingsok.com/how-do-i-know-if-the-bolts-are-in-bearing-my-shower.html/comment-page-1#comment-15516 .monk Mon, 10 Oct 2011 05:19:30 +0000 http://www.bearingsok.com/how-do-i-know-if-the-bolts-are-in-bearing-my-shower.html#comment-15516 if your house has trusses on the floor that your shower is on it most likely is not load bearing how old is your house go in the attic and look if on the lower floor then does the wall run the length of the House or just short wall if your house has trusses on the floor that your shower is on it most likely is not load bearing

how old is your house go in the attic and look if on the lower floor then does the wall run the length of the House or just short wall

]]> Comment on Where can I find the pedals a bicycle 20”kent? by bikeworks http://www.bearingsok.com/where-can-i-find-the-pedals-a-bicycle-20kent.html/comment-page-1#comment-15515 bikeworks Mon, 10 Oct 2011 01:38:29 +0000 http://www.bearingsok.com/where-can-i-find-the-pedals-a-bicycle-20kent.html#comment-15515 You are looking for bottom bracket bearings to fit a 1 piece crank... not pedal bearings. These are standard size and readily available HOWEVER since I assume they failed while you were riding the bearing cups should be replaced as well. This takes less than 15 minutes by an experienced mechanic. In summary, you need 2 bottom bracket bearings and 2 bearing cups for a 1 piece crank (and someone to install them correctly). You are looking for bottom bracket bearings to fit a 1 piece crank… not pedal bearings.

These are standard size and readily available HOWEVER since I assume they failed while you were riding the bearing cups should be replaced as well. This takes less than 15 minutes by an experienced mechanic.

In summary, you need 2 bottom bracket bearings and 2 bearing cups for a 1 piece crank (and someone to install them correctly).

]]> Comment on Is this car a good deal? by Rudy H http://www.bearingsok.com/is-this-car-a-good-deal.html/comment-page-1#comment-15513 Rudy H Sun, 09 Oct 2011 20:59:56 +0000 http://www.bearingsok.com/is-this-car-a-good-deal.html#comment-15513 Absolutely positively in no way should you buy this car. It's not a fixer upper. it a stay away fromer. It will be broken down all the time, and you will be sinking your time and money into it non stop. Not to mention, that list is probably not half of what the car really needs. They'll be cooling problems, compressions problems, cam chains to change, water pump failure, transmission failure and on and on. There's nothing wrong with a high mileage Toyota, but if it has all of thoe problems, it has not been well maintained. Absolutely positively in no way should you buy this car. It’s not a fixer upper. it a stay away fromer. It will be broken down all the time, and you will be sinking your time and money into it non stop. Not to mention, that list is probably not half of what the car really needs. They’ll be cooling problems, compressions problems, cam chains to change, water pump failure, transmission failure and on and on. There’s nothing wrong with a high mileage Toyota, but if it has all of thoe problems, it has not been well maintained.

]]> Comment on Is this car a good deal? by ? http://www.bearingsok.com/is-this-car-a-good-deal.html/comment-page-1#comment-15512 ? Sun, 09 Oct 2011 20:14:24 +0000 http://www.bearingsok.com/is-this-car-a-good-deal.html#comment-15512 $ 150 is a good deal for any car. You could probably sell it as parts for at least $ 500. If you are looking to fix it up the fuel leak would be easier to tell you about if I knew where it was. I'm hoping it's just a cracked fuel hose which is an easy fix. You can get a full set of aftermarket stainless steel brake lines for $ 100 for just about any car, I can imagine factory replacement for a single one would be under $ 20 and probably much less but I've never honestly had any problems with mine. Wheel bearing probably wouldn't be that hard though again never had to replace mine. Exhaust is again not a big deal depending on what section you need to replace. You can easily get a muffler for $ 50, piping isn't too bad either, Catalytic Converters cost a pretty penny since they have platinum and all sorts of fancy metals in them but I think they still sell under $ 100. $ 150 is a good deal for any car. You could probably sell it as parts for at least $ 500.

If you are looking to fix it up the fuel leak would be easier to tell you about if I knew where it was. I’m hoping it’s just a cracked fuel hose which is an easy fix.

You can get a full set of aftermarket stainless steel brake lines for $ 100 for just about any car, I can imagine factory replacement for a single one would be under $ 20 and probably much less but I’ve never honestly had any problems with mine.

Wheel bearing probably wouldn’t be that hard though again never had to replace mine.

Exhaust is again not a big deal depending on what section you need to replace. You can easily get a muffler for $ 50, piping isn’t too bad either, Catalytic Converters cost a pretty penny since they have platinum and all sorts of fancy metals in them but I think they still sell under $ 100.

]]> Comment on Is this car a good deal? by bigathanmybody http://www.bearingsok.com/is-this-car-a-good-deal.html/comment-page-1#comment-15511 bigathanmybody Sun, 09 Oct 2011 19:46:07 +0000 http://www.bearingsok.com/is-this-car-a-good-deal.html#comment-15511 any car is worth $ 150 you could probably sell it to the junk yard for more than that any car is worth $ 150

you could probably sell it to the junk yard for more than that

]]> Comment on Is this car a good deal? by JustChillin http://www.bearingsok.com/is-this-car-a-good-deal.html/comment-page-1#comment-15510 JustChillin Sun, 09 Oct 2011 19:29:11 +0000 http://www.bearingsok.com/is-this-car-a-good-deal.html#comment-15510 mileage is about right easy to fix everything. If your are a do it yourself person (depending on were the brake/fuel leaks are) -fuel leak -brake line leak -needs wheel bearing -needs exhaust mileage is about right
easy to fix everything. If your are a do it yourself person (depending on were the brake/fuel leaks are)
-fuel leak
-brake line leak
-needs wheel bearing
-needs exhaust

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